Eventually - after a rocky scramble at the foot of the pass - the path came into the Lham Chukir valley.

The Lham Chukir Valley

A sea-change from the pass of the previous few hours, this was a valley resplendent in green, bisected along its length by a vivaciously flowing river, and abundant in flowers.

The valley ran south west for about 15 easygoing kilometres. Groups of pilgrims wandered along, some hurrying, others pausing for tea at the nomads tents once again beside the track.

Refreshment Stop - Tibetan Style!

Most of the tents here were to supply pilgrims with essential pilgrimage gear - an eclectic array of tsampa, tea, noodles and pepsi were available (a caffeine & sugar boost was exactly what I needed here!). The availability of many of these things did leave a mark on the environment - the Dira Phuk monastery had suffered particularly from litter, though to blame litter exclusively on foreign tourists or pilgrims would be to overlook a key character of the Tibetan people.

Toward the end of the valley, the third Kailas Gompa sits distinctly on the right hand side of the track. Zutrul Phuk is perched among many religious buildings and edifices, destroyed by time and more deliberate forces. The Gompa is used by most groups for the second or third night stop, but being two or three hours outside Darchen, its not usually necessary to stop here.

Further south still, the path enters a narrow ravine, and starts once more to climb. The river below becomes faster flowing, and the land regains its brown dusty colour. Crossing the crest of an outcrop, the rusty plain of Barkha once again rears into view. From here, the path drops onto the plain, then follows the foothills west once again, back toward Darchen. At the southernmost point, an distinctive tent sits, issuing tickets to all Chinese and foreigners (Tibetans get through free). They're not too insistent, and don't give chase if you don't stop!

So is my new life already tainted by sin.